It starts at the fish market at six, with whatever came off the pangas that morning. Usually sierra, sometimes snapper, never anything that has seen a freezer.

The short version

Dice the fish small. Cover it with lime and a pinch of salt and leave it for twenty minutes, no more. Add red onion, tomato, cucumber, a lot of coriander and one serrano chilli, seeds in if you are brave.

Serve it on a tostada with avocado and a cold beer. Eat it by the pool, in your swimsuit, before noon. Lupita insists on that last part.